John had Live Tracker which worked with the cellular signal on his cell phone. With this we identified his real time location. Sometimes the signal droped (in Himalyas) and thus the device updated with missing links. Those… couldn’t be helped.

Did the title get your attention? Good, read on and I will share some of the thoughts and events experienced during my record breaking ride. 

August 1 It was 0545 as my plane descended below the clouds and I got my first ever views of India. Torrential rain, not really what I had hoped for but still it was the monsoon season!! After a fairly easy time with Indian immigration and customs I grabbed my gear and headed for the exit then it hit me, the sights, sounds and smells of Delhi airport!! at least the rain had stopped and the sun was doing it’s best to break through. After some 14 hours of travelling and around 6 more to go I decided a taxi was my best option, so after some quick negotiating and 1,000 rupees I was on my way. My destination was Chandigarh, it was here that I had arranged to meet Rajiv Yadav the owner of Royal India Bikes, who with some concerns had agreed to rent me a brand new 2018 Himalayan motorcycle. 

So what was the purpose of my visit? My name is John Nye, born in England I now live in Australia. Having ridden motorbikes since the early 70’s I have in the last few years found the time to look for challenging rides and if possible complete them. 

It was several months ago that I read an article from Motorcycle India about a man from Bangalore named Chiranthana Ramaiah who in 2016 had completed an epic journey around India and in doing so had created a world record and laid down an impressive challenge to other bikers. I intended to replicate his journey as closely as possible and hopefully set a new record time. 

About now I should confess, I am a road biker with minimal off road experience who had ridden a Royal for less than 20klm in the last 40 years!! No wonder Rajiv was hesitant!! Of course he and several others knowledgeable bikers tried to warn me of the many dangers but as they say “No fool like an old fool” Sure I listened but the decision had been made and I rarely change my mind. After all I had 45 years of experience in many countries including Saudi Arabia, Vietnam and China plus I don’t know how to fail (So far) 

However the taxi ride from Delhi to Chandigarh made me question my sanity, when I asked the taxi driver why the traffic was so crazy he looked at me smiling and said “Normal” I was just starting to realise that this was going to be a real challenge. 

That evening and the following day was spent packing, unpacking and repackaging the bike, fitting extra LED 

lighting and making notes on the endless stream of advice offered to me by Rajiv. Finally I felt that the bike and myself were ready, announcing that I intended to depart at 0500hrs the next morning I turned in for the night (Insert photo 1) 

August 3 0500hrs. In the darkness I quietly pushed the bike away from the farmstead before starting the engine, the bike had only 16kms on the clock and I wanted to break it in gently. Firing up the engine I sat there for a minute or so then engaging first gear I slipped the clutch and pulled out into the unknown… the journey had begun. 

The next few hours passed quickly, I was busy learning the bikes characteristics and adapting to the rules of driving in 

India. Just as I was starting to relax a little and enjoy things I reached kiratpur and the turnoff for Mandi, that’s when things changed dramatically (those of you who have done this ride know what I mean) and I had my first lesson on how to overtake and survive the endless stream of trucks and buses that travel this route. It wasn’t long before I had learnt the golden rule, if it’s bigger than you watch out !! But after an hour I had got the hang of the system and was making good progress, looking for the smallest of opportunity and overtaking as if the devil was after me. By the time 

I reached Manali at around 1500hrs some 8 hours later I felt a greater confidence in myself and the bike underneath me. Booking in to Johnson lodge for two night’s I took heed of Rajiv’s advice and gave myself a chance to adjust to the altitude. The next 38 hours of waiting were a major frustration, it did however give me the chance to meet a lovely lady named Moksha Jetley who as many will know, was the first woman to complete the Leh to Manali journey in a time of 20 hours and 20 minutes !! 

August 5 0500hrs saw me sipping a hot cup of chai and eager to get going, I had intended to return to Chandigarh to start my attempt however the previous evening I had received an email from Guinness book of world records advising me that my attempt was too complex a challenge for their records !! Although I felt cheated it meant that I could start my ride from Manali. Pulling out from the car park I made my way through the town toward the Manali bridge. As I crossed the bridge I noticed the headlights of a bike behind me, I was curious because I could see a twin light configuration, pulling in to a petrol station the mystery was solved it was a Triumph Tiger 800 xc the bike that I had originally considered for this trip. The rider Haren introduced himself and after a brief chat we decided to ride together for a while. As we started to climb the tiger was starting to show it’s vastly superior power, on 

the twisties and hairpins the Himalayan was it’s equal but it just couldn’t keep pace on open roads and I had no desire to destroy the engine. Knowing that I was planning to stop at Jispa and Haren intended to go further after a quick photo session at Rhotang pass I waved him to make his own progress, as I watched him disappear I settled down to enjoy the bike and the scenery. Suddenly I had arrived at Jispa and it wasn’t even lunchtime, in a moment of madness I decided that I couldn’t lose another five or six hours of riding, I decided against the advice of Rajiv to push on. As I encountered the first water crossing I remembered his words about crossing early in the day but this one appeared to be easily manageable as did the second, I was just starting to feel pleased with my decision when I arrived at the third crossing, this was a totally different situation the muddy brown waters were running fast and furious, silently I cursed my stupidity for not listening. At that moment a lone rider on a big BMW pulled up beside me. There was a group of riders on the far bank changing out of their wet clothing, they shouted and pointed to what appeared to be the safest passage, the BMW rider looked at me on the Himalayan and I could see the contemptuous look on his face as he rode into that crazy torrent of water, that was it I wasn’t going to return to Jispa, if he could cross so could I. Following the route he had taken I entered the water, things were going well until two thirds of the way across when the BMW rider got into difficulties. I was fast catching up then just 

as I approached over he went. I was now in trouble, at this point the water was almost two feet deep and I had no way of getting past him, to avoid a fall I had to get off the bike and keep it upright, with the incredible pressure of water my strength was fading fast and I knew I was in trouble, fortunately the riders who had crossed came to the rescue, they helped the BMW rider get his bike to safety then realising I was struggling to keep upright they came back to help me. Back on dry land and gasping for breath I knew I had been pretty lucky. As the rescue team who were all Bullet riders from Kerala gathered round the Himalayan I tried to express my gratitude for their help, in true biker fashion they waved it away with some even saying that if it hadn’t been for the BMW they thought I would have made the crossing. On that note I had to get back on the bike and ride to tent city at Darcha where exhausted I intended to stop for the night 

To the KERALA CRUISERS my thanks and I pray you all returned safely to your families (Insert photo 2) 

August 6 Determined to reach Leh I made an early start, the bike seemingly unaffected by the crossing was running well, zing zing bar was soon behind me, stopping briefly for photos at Keylong pass I pushed on, the views of the terrain were incredible but the condition 

of the road meant it was unwise to look for long. Approaching Upshi I saw a cluster of Bikes, it was the Kerala Cruisers so I stopped to take chai with them, I learnt that some of the group were in need of some diamox of which I had plenty, time for me to return the favour, then with warm farewells exchanged I rode on. As I was approaching Leh I had to stop, there perched high on a hill was a Tibetan monastery built in a style to almost replicate the Potala palace in Lhasa. I wanted to stop and explore but the clock was ticking so regretfully after a quick photo I climbed back on the bike and with a last long look headed for Leh to find the RE workshop and get the bike serviced. By 1700hrs the bike had been done and I had my pass for Khardung la in my hand, time for some food and sleep. 

August 7 0400hrs What a shitty night, a combination of the noise outside and the anticipation of riding what is claimed to be the highest road in the world meant I barely slept still nothing was going to stop me, two pieces of raw garlic and half a diamox tablet washed down with a hot cup of chai and I was on my way. As I passed the army checkpoint I was buzzing not sure if it was adrenaline or Diamox but I was climbing quickly eager to reach the summit. As I turned a corner there it was Khardungla, with mixed emotions (those of you who have done this ride understand) I took a few photos for future reference and by 0700hrs I had started my bike ready to 

descend, Kargil was my next destination. What a great ride this was, sunshine, scenic views and good roads, So good that by 1400hrs I had reached Kargil. Then came mistake number two, Google maps said Sonamarg was only 3 hours and 24minutes even allowing for rough terrain I felt confident could make it before dark. How wrong could I be, that good road quickly became a muddy track and the sun disap‐ peared to be replaced by torrential rain, determined not to let it beat me I pushed on, what came next was every bikers nightmare, thick mist, visibility was down to 10 feet and the light was fading, the road had become more like a goat track with a sheer rock face on my right and sheer drop on my left and still trucks were making the journey. This had become more of a fight for survival than a bike ride I don’t mind admitting that I was terrified, I crawled into Sonamag exhausted and incredibly relieved to be in one piece. 

August 8 0600hrs still aching and tired from yesterday’s events it was a struggle to get motivated, not so the Himalayan, as I pressed the switch she fired into life and was ready to go, 15 minutes later the events of yesterday became history my focus was getting through the reported civil disturbance at Srinagar. What was I worried about? The police had closed the Srinagar bypass and all traffic was diverted through the town, this of course meant crazy traffic but no trouble, Jammu was my next destination and mindful 

of it’s reputation I pushed as hard as I could until it was behind me, the bike was running so well that I kept riding until the light had gone and my eyes were struggling to focus. As I reached Pathankot the lights of a hotel were shining and I could see my name on the register, tomorrow was another day. 

August 9 0800hrs, Chandigarh was my target and as it was only 250km I knew it was an easy target So I decided to make a late start (the hotel bed was so comfortable). Setting off I had no pressure to race in fact in a moment of impulse I decided to stop at a roadside dhaba for breakfast, it was one of my better decisions they served the the best Dhal and rotti I’ve ever had !! The Masala Chai was pretty good as well. Fed and watered I continued my journey until at around 1500hrs the welcoming sight of Hill view farmstead the home of Royal India Bikes greeted me. I felt good, five days and 12 hours after I set out the first corner had been completed and I had completed the full circuit of Himachal Pradesh & Jammu Kashmir. Time to drink some of Rajiv’s beer !!! 

August 10 0500 hrs Another early start as I want to push as far as possible today, then disaster struck, Google maps refused to work. After an hour of calling vodaphone I discovered they had cut me off because I had gone too close to the Pakistan border!! 

Some choice words and they reconnected me. Time to discover if the Himalayan really had staying power on the road. Karnal, Meerut, Aligarh, they disappeared behind me, refuel and go, Etah, kannauj just names on the map, in darkness I rode on, wet, hungry and a little tired but Lucknow was my target. The bike was running so well and the LED lights lit up the road and the traffic had disappeared, suddenly I was bypassing Lucknow and heading for Gorakhapur, in my mind I felt good so why not try. It was a bridge too far, suddenly I realised that I was on auto pilot, sheer stupidity had set in, I saw a truck stop and knew that I could go no further. That was it 18 hours after leaving Chandigarh and a little over 830km clocked I called time. 

August 11 0530hrs trucks were starting up so I knew it was time to get back on the bike, a quick chai and away I went into one of the worst monsoon rains imaginable, what a start to the day still at least some traffic had disappeared, then came the road works… a series of diversions that could only be described as mudholes, trucks and buses with the occasional car and bike all fighting to get through what could only be described as a hell hole nightmare, this was very nearly as bad as the journey from Kargil to Sonamag, I am certain that if I had been riding a heavier bike I would not have got through. Roadworks after roadworks I was exhausted, then suddenly the road improved and the last 8 hours of punishment were just a bad dream. I pulled into 

muzaffarpur junction just as the light was failing, plastered in mud, desperate for food and sleep but with another very hard earned 625km on the clock. 

August 12 0530hrs and ready to face another day, or was I, looking at the grey sky above all I could see was thick rain loaded clouds that threatened to burst at any second. As I pressed the starter the bike fired instantly, at least one of us seemed eager to ride. The journey started well no roadworks and no rain perhaps today would be a good day, then just as I began to feel positive… Yep more road works and the rain laden clouds decided it was time to let loose their cargo. It became a repeat of the previous day struggling against the elements, the roads (or lack of) and the traffic all of whom had no time or respect for some crazy biker. The only thing on my side was the Himalayan, sure footed as a mountain goat it got me through whatever the roads and weather could throw at us. That evening I found a small lodge in some remote village, where it was I had no idea, all I knew was I had only achieved a little over 500kms. I fell asleep that night with a promise to myself that no matter what I would reach Tezu the following day. 

August 13 0700hrs shit, I was that tired I had forgotten to set my alarm, grabbing on my still wet clothing I got ready to 

leave as quickly as possible. Once again the bike fired up and seemed eager to go, as I sped off I realised that it wasn’t raining and the sky even had some patches of blue sky, things were looking good. That was as until I lost mobile connection and my navigation system. I pushed on regardless, I still had an offline map and years of military training meant I should be pretty good at reading them. That theory didn’t last long, riding a bike, avoiding vehicles, potholes and stray animals while navigating is not that easy, several wrong turns and backtracking meant that I soon had very little idea of where I had been or where I was going, I was almost totally lost. It was around about now that I started to doubt myself, should I turn back, would it matter if I quit, these thoughts kept buzzing in my mind, fortunately I had experienced this before on a previous occasions, marathon runners refer to it as “hitting the wall” when it happens it’s so very easy to listen and give in but the mind can be powerful when it’s needed . So digging deep I pushed on in the general direction of tezu and the second corner, I kept telling myself once there on was on the homeward stretch. Like I said the mind can be a powerful force when you want it to be. After nearly nineteen hours of riding I knew I was really close to the second corner, I had to stop at a checkpoint for a documents check only to find that despite my pleading they would not let me proceed any further, in fact one official wanted to detain me overnight. So with Tezu a mere 20km away I was forced to retrace my steps and make a hasty exit. I 

cannot begin to describe my feelings at this point (If I did they would not be printed) but the anger and frustration I felt dispelled all thoughts of tiredness and kept with my mind focused on riding, I kept going until Tezu was well behind me. It was just starting to get light so I had been riding for about 24 hours, where I stopped I have no idea but it was dry and quiet and the concrete bench was so comfortable. 

August 14 I woke after what seemed like minutes but was probably an hour to see a number of children all dressed ready for school, I had slept in their bus stop!! Quickly putting on my helmet and gloves I started the bike and disappeared down the road. It wasn’t long be‐ fore the tiredness set in again, I had not eaten a proper meal for two days, surviving on a few muesli bars and bottles of water I desperately needed to sleep. I was starting to get desperate as I had not seen a roadsign in English for hours so everything regarding navigation was a combination of guesswork and luck. For once the weather was being kind, the region I was riding through looked like it hadn’t seen rain for a few days, now instead of mud I had thick clouds of road dust and diesel fumes from the countless trucks all laden with quarry stone. So I fuelled the bike and kept going, it took me a while to realise why the oncoming truck was flashing it’s lights and blasting it’s horn…. I was riding on the wrong side of the road, it was definitely time to stop !! 

A few kms further I saw a hotel and pulled in, at first they wanted to refuse me a room but fortunately the manager took pity. Looking in the mirror minutes later I understood why, plastered in mud and a face black with road grime I looked a pitiful sight. Showered and fed I was ready to sleep properly for the first time in more than 36 hours having completed a very demanding 1500+Kms 

August 15 0500hrs after a good 10hours of sleep I was eager to get going, I knew that I had to get through Guwahati as early as possible to avoid the morning traffic, with this in mind I pushed on as fast as possible. 0900hrs saw me clear of Guwahati and approaching Pathsala I had made over 200kms in just over 3 hours, pleased with the progress I pulled up beside a dhabba and ordered breakfast and chai. Fed and watered it was back on the bike determined to reach Siliguri and turn the corner of Bangladesh. By late afternoon I started to get excited the weather was good, I had gotten through the bottleneck of Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal, soon I would have a decent phone signal so Google maps would be working again and the roads were improving with every kilometre. Feeling good I rode past Siliguri and by dusk had entered Islampur, a little over 650kms for the day I felt good. 

August 16 0530hrs first light so up and at it, weather is good, 

roads are vastly improved and the bike was running so well and I had cleared the bottleneck and was now on my way to the third corner… Then just as life was looking good I heard an unusual noise from the bike, fearing the worst I stopped to investigate. The luggage rack for the side panniers had finally succumbed to the constant battering of the last two weeks, one of the welds had broken and the frame was rubbing against the spokes of the rear wheel. This had to be fixed and quickly, fortunately there was a roadside bike repair shop nearby and within 30 minutes the frame had been welded, the oil changed and the chain re-adjusted, all for the princely sum of 200 rupees!! Back on the road again and pushing towards Kolkata, suddenly I had got a signal on the navigation again joy of joys, Google maps back on line now I could pick up the pace and make some real progress, but Google maps is a cruel invention, following instructions blindly I made a right turn maybe this was a shortcut? all seemed well For about 25kms until the road became a dirt track, then to my surprise there was a group of people at a desk collecting 20 rupees a time for a toll, bemused I handed over the money and continued down the track, then things became clear, the bridge had been washed away and the locals had constructed a makeshift structure of bamboo poles and sandbags, I promised myself never to trust Google maps again !! Eventually I found myself back on decent roads but I had lost more than 2 hours of riding time. As the 

light was failing I decided to write the day off as a bad experience, thanks to the enforced stop for repairs and Google maps I had only achieved around 360kms, not happy I found a guesthouse near Suri and called it a day. 

August 17 0530hrs It was a new day and I was determined to replace the lost mileage of yesterday, picking up route 19 Kolkata was my first target, as I got settled in to the ride I was faced with a decision, do I go into the city and ride back out again or put miles on the clock ? The decision was easy Chennai was calling, dropping onto the bypass road I picked up the AH45, this meant I had probably saved myself a good 4 hours of traffic. Hugging the coast on the AH45 suddenly I had to stop and take a photo of the roadsign .. “BALASORE” yes mine were !! Sick humour maybe but I was laughing for the next twenty kms. The AH45 changed to the 16 but the road and riding conditions were perfect, the bike which by now had some miles on the clock was running like a dream, it was happy cruising along Speedo reading a steady 100/110 @5200 rpm, I was starting to really like this little Himalayan, yes maybe 5th gear could use a change of ratio for a few more kms per hour (are you listening RE?) but the bike setup was perfect, the handling is superb and confidence inspiring taking all but the most severe bends at full throttle. The kms were rising and I was enjoying every minute, 

stopping only for fuel I pushed on Bhadrak, Cuttack, Bhubaneswar, Chatrapur, Brahmapur all behind me, finally after four tanks of fuel and nearly seventeen hours in the saddle at just gone 2200hrs I pulled into Srikakulam. Tired hungry and sore, both the bike and I needed to rest, but I had ridden some 940kms for the day, that’s what I came to do. 

August 18 0600hrs and on the road, today I wanted to reach Chennai, 900+kms but definitely achievable, the AH45 was one of the best roads I had travelled so far, long straight stretches of good tarmac making we wish for that extra gear, suddenly on the outskirts of Visakhapatnam I saw a coffee bar, the chance for a real cup of coffee was too much I had to stop, yes I lost around 30 minutes but it was such good coffee!! Back on the road and pushing hard to make up for my indulgence the things were going well, Rajahmundry, Eluru Guntur all behind me, the bike was working hard and again I found myself wishing for that extra gear, this bike has impressed me so much but the continued running at high rpm was beginning to tell on the bike and my hands. I started to think that maybe the oil change at the roadside garage was not such a good idea, as I entered Ongole I saw a Royal Enfield showroom, that was it decision made, the bike still had a long run ahead and it had been pushed beyond reasonable limits it deserved a decent service. I pulled in to the 

Showroom just before 1700hrs almost expecting to be turned away but within 10 minutes the bike was inside the workshop getting the care and attention it deserved. I had only done around 600kms but what the hell tomorrow was another day. 

August 19 0500hrs saw me pulling out of Ongole and setting a hot pace, both the bike and myself were recharged and ready to do some serious miles. By 1100hrs I was in Chennai and fighting my way through the heaviest traffic congestion I had seen for a long time, then it was Tindivanam then Puducherry, it became clear that the closer I got to the coast the worse the roads became, I then remembered the roads of Assam, I laughed at how I had been spoilt over the last couple of days. Finally at 2050hrs I called a halt at Thanjavur slightly disappointed as I had only achieved around 650km but happy in the knowledge that tomorrow I would complete the 3rd corner. 

August 20 0530hrs Pulling out from Thanjavur I knew that today would be the day I reached the third corner and it felt good, but heading towards the coast the roads became smaller and in places quite rough, this should have meant a reduction in speed and a loss of time but by now I had developed an understanding of just how much punishment this bike could take. Road surfaces that would previously see me cautiously 

travelling at 30-40kms were now easy at 60-70kms (with the occasional emergency manoeuvres) pushing hard Pudukkottai was soon behind me, the Tamil Nadu landscape with it’s dry red dirt and scrub vegetation reminded me of the Australian outback, this was enjoyable riding. A quick stop at Cholapurnum for a photo and off again, Paramakudi behind me I was heading for Sayalgudi and the coast, at Vaippar I turned left to travel through the salt pans region, this was an experience, mile after mile of carefully con‐ structed dams and huge piles of freshly harvested salt, quite an experience. Reaching Thoothukudi I turned towards Tirenelveli, this I knew gave me a clear run to Kanyakamuri. It was just after midday as I pulled into the main street, stopping briefly for a photo of the colourful and impressive entrance I had a feeling that I was going to like this place, that feeling was confirmed 5 minutes later as I stopped in front of Our Lady of Ransom Church, this was a moment of peace and tran‐ quillity indeed a strange feeling for someone who has spent the last two weeks battling his way round the country. Snapping back to reality I wanted to see the ocean the very tip of India, I knew it must be close by so riding through some narrow streets I found the sea wall, off in the distance I could see a large statue just off the shoreline that was my target. As I made my way towards this imposing landmark I reached a security gate, apparently this was a restricted area, for once my charm worked, with a promise that I would proceed slowly and return within 5 minutes I was allowed to 

proceed with the bike right to the waters edge, the very tip of India, now I had made it 3rd corner completed !! 

I confess that it was with some reluctance that I started the bike and rode away from kanyakamuri but already the 4th corner was calling. I was also concerned about the news I had just received, severe weather warnings and news of the disastrous loss of lives in my next destination, Kerala. It had been my intention to ride all the way to Pune using the coastal road 66 but having consulted with the local police I took their advice and headed inland towards Madurai, it was my intention to then cut back towards the coast via Coimbatore. With a plan in place I rode away from kanyakamuri. It was just after 1930hrs and some 690kms later that I finally arrived in Madurai ready to stop for the night. 

August 21 0500hrs saw me leaving Madurai headed for Coim‐ batore, the closer I got the worse it rained, thinking that maybe the rains had spread further inland I decided to reroute to Mysuru and then head towards the coast, by now I had been riding for 6 hours and was soaked to the core, after the glorious weather of Tamil Nadu and the enforced change of direction this was becoming increasingly difficult, however things got progressively worse, this was partly because the weather was atrocious but also because of road conditions Google maps constantly changing my route and the roads were becoming back roads in the middle of nowhere. I 

was determined to get to Goa secretly hopeful that the weather might improve and I could pick up the route 66, the remainder of the day was spent riding around the region getting tired and totally lost. I knew it was time to stop and think things through. 

August 22 Despite the struggles of the previous day I had to get to Goa, after some 8 hours of riding I finally made it but I had to face facts travelling any further towards the coast was stupidity, I tried but the damage done to the roads by the storms in some places was so severe that the risk just wasn’t worth it, I had spent most of the day riding around in circles and the bike was starting to show the effects of constantly being ridden in such adverse conditions. Resigned to reality I headed inland again towards Belgaum where hopefully I would find a decent bed, some food and a garage to adjust the chain and clean the plug. My last thoughts as I fell asleep that night were.. Tomorrow I will do better. 

August 23 0530hrs found me on the road leaving Belgaum and determined to claw back some of the lost time. The bike now serviced was back to normal and running like a dream, I had my route all planned Kolhapur, Satara, Pune, Mumbai, of course I knew that I had to get through Mumbai as early in the day as possible so there was no stopping for luxuries such as food, this had to be a fuel and go mission and at best possible speed. Despite my best efforts I reached the outskirts of Mumbai around 1500hrs and the traffic was already crazy, 

Part 2 

Throwing caution to the wind I raced headlong into the Mumbai traffic. Never let anyone try to tell you that the Himalayan is not suitable for the city traffic, maybe it was the visual impression of a taller than average bike decked out with panniers, horn blasting and all lights blazing, maybe it was the wild eyed road stained lunatic with a gopro stuck on his helmet sat on the bike (or a combination of both) whatever within two hours of entering the city I was through and running free towards the 4th corner. Maybe it was the effects of the last two days or the excess rush of adrenaline from racing through the Mumbai traffic I’m not sure but suddenly I was wiped out and had to stop. After nearly 12 hours of hard riding I had only achieved around 560kms, must do better tomorrow. 

August 24 0500hrs Up and At ’em. Miles on the clock, that’s all that matters, At least that was my plan. I knew that I had around 940kms to cover before I reached my target the 4th corner at Narayan Sarovar. Google maps estimate 16 hours of riding, could I do it ? By 0800hrs Surat was behind me, no time for food it had to be fuel and go, eating another muesli bar while riding, by midday I had passed Vadodara and was well on the way to Ahmedabad this was good progress, by 1400hrs I had ridden past Ahmedabad and was aiming for Gandhidham, after some seven hours I had clocked 

up 470kms I pushed on fuel and go. As I approached Halved I knew I had to stop for food, I had been riding on empty for too long, like the bike I needed fuel to keep going. A quick dish of Dhal and a naan and I was ready to go, riding through Lakadia I realised that I had to revise my plan, maybe just maybe I could last the distance and reach the 4th corner but what then ? My understanding was that Narayan Sarovar was a pretty isolated small village, certainly not a place likely to have a hotel, that meant a night on the roadside in a potentially dangerous location, not a sensible idea. As I reached Gandhidham my dilemma was solved, a roadsign showing a place called Mundra. As I live in a town called Mandurah (pronounced Mandra) this had to be investigated, plus it was only 190kms from there to Narayan Sarovar, this meant that I could reach the 4th corner and make a good run back to the main roads leading to Chandigarh. Pulling in to Mundra I had completed another 13hrs riding and clocked some 800kms, happy days. 

August 25 0500 hrs saw me heading towards my destination, I was buzzing, the aches and pains of the last 20 days forgotten all I could think was not long now. Those thoughts spurred me on and the excitement started to build. 0932hrs Suddenly I was there Narayan Sarovar the 4th corner!! As I looked around I was glad that I had chosen to stop in Mundra, the village was just that, a small collection 

of tired old dusty buildings and a church, not sure what I had expected but it certainly wasn’t this. I sat there for a short time feeling elated but sad. Elated that since leaving Manali at 0600hrs on August 5th I had travelled to the 4 corners of India in a time of 20 days 3 hours and 32 minutes. Sad that my journey was coming to a conclusion. Then I remembered that my initial challenge was to replicate the journey undertaken Chiranthana, that was the 4 corners and a return to my original starting point. With that thought in mind I checked Google maps, 1510kms and 25hours of riding, the adventure was not over yet!! With that I turned the key hit the starter and left in a cloud of dust. 

Some 10kms later I was stopped in a small village, here I was confronted by an arrogant, power crazy little shit wearing corporal’s stripes. What should have been a simple identity confimation became a near international crisis, after some 45 minutes spent checking my documents, the bikes documents, the contents of every item of my luggage and the bike itself, I finally lost my patience, I casually switched on the gopro camera on my helmet, as soon as the blue light started flashing he became flustered asking what it was, to which I replied “corporal I am recording everything so that when I lodge an official complaint with your captain I can prove your arrogance and how badly you treat civilian personnel ” 

It worked 5 minutes later I was riding again. Annoyed that I had lost valuable time I then took a wrong turn and promptly lost another 15 or more minutes. Back on track and pushing hard to make up for this lost time mother nature had one last roll of the dice, it started to rain and boy did it rain, what 5 minutes before was a nice dry tarmac road had suddenly become a greasy slippery trap, I had to throttle back and ride very carefully, more lost time. By the time I reached Palanpur my nerves were shot, it was now nearly 2130 hours , I had been riding for more than 16 hours and only completed some 520kms since leaving the 4th corner. That night my last thought was one of despair. I still had around 1000kms to go. 

August 26 0200hrs I hadn’t really slept properly, you know the kind of sleep where your mind won’t switch off, suddenly I decided, shit or bust I wanted to reach Chandigarh that day. Decision made by 0300hrs I was dressed and ready to go, for some reason this time I was uneasy about the prospect of riding in the dark, maybe I had been lucky too many times recently I don’t know, with a quick prayer for a safe journey I pulled out onto the route 27 . As a coach pulled past me I decided that it was a good idea get into it’s slipstream, with nerves on edge I followed closely in his wheel tracks hoping to avoid any major potholes or stray animals, was I glad I had fitted extra LED lighting. I reached Abu mountains as 

dawn was breaking the view was awesome but I had no time for sightseeing I had too many kms to ride, again it was fuel and go, progress was good until I had to stop at a small roadside garage, the chain needed adjustment. In very good English he asked me what was wrong, explaining what I needed and he set to work, from nowhere a cup of chai appeared which I gratefully drank, within 10 mins the chain was adjusted and oiled, ready to go I asked how much I owed, with a smile on his face he declined any payment and wished me god speed, what an incredible human being. 

Back on the road and riding as hard as that brave little bike could take, the miles were rolling by, Pali, Beawar then suddenly Jaipur a place I really wanted to visit, not now it was fuel and go, I could see the signs for Delhi, I was getting close, I was going to make it, then at Panipat I saw it, a roadsign with the words Chandigarh 161kms. I was going to make it, how those last couple of hours dragged, it seemed like an eternity but eventually I entered the city, and I was so close, suddenly there it was the entrance to Hill View farm, as I entered the leafy drive and pulled to a halt I breathed a huge sigh of relief, with a feeling of sadness I switched off the engine and sat still, I had done it.. not only had I completed the 4 corners in 20 days and three hours, I had ridden the coastal circumference of India in a time of 23 days and 12 hours exactly. 

CONCLUSION 

Did I enjoy the challenge? “Like all extended Rides it had it’s moments.” 

Would I do it again? “Preferably not.” 

What was the highlight of the ride? “Kanyakamuri and the finish line.” 

What was the biggest surprise of the journey? “It had to be that Himalayan, what a brave, honest little machine it has proven to be.” 

Would I buy a Himalayan? “If I lived in India..in a heartbeat. This is not just an adventure bike, this is a superb entry level ATB Adventure Touring Bike.” 

For those of you who would like more information regarding this journey and previous rides visit www.jcridesagain.com OrFacebook/ Youtube/Instagram JC Rides Again 

Safe Riding John Nye (JC) Copyright