What a difference a day makes. The sense of relief to be heading toward some form of civilisation is enough to lift my spirits and push me back into the bottleneck of Bangladesh & Nepal.
As I turn that corner to start my descent to Kolkata I am feeling blessed. I notice roads with tarmac rather than mud baths and rays of sunshine are now lighting the way for me down the Bengal coast. Everything seems to be in my favour, what more can I ask for?
Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) is rapidly approaching and with only 17 kms to go I ask myself, `do I really need to be going into the centre of this East Bengal capital, a city that has a high density population of approx 24,000 per Square KM!’ The answer is quite simply ….No, I think I will just slip down alongside her.
I’m really enjoying the ride … this road is fantastic the bike is running like a dream and I’m gonna put some serious miles on the clock today.
Things are really looking good, the miles are flying by, the bike is doing well and the traffic is reasonable. I eventually pull into a place called Ongole, where I notice on the right hand side of the road a huge sign for Royal Enfield. The bike deserves some TLC, she’s done us proud and really stretched her legs today. It’s 5 o’clock in the evening and it looks as though they’re going to close the doors as I wander up and ask for a service. I’m conscious of the time and feel as though I’m chancing my arm but it’s worth a shot. With a big smile they open the doors and agree to indulge the bike with a well-deserved full service. Can you imagine pulling up to a garage in Australia at 5pm asking for a full service and the response you would get!
I reckon the bike deserves this indulgence after all, she’s carried me for 2 full weeks now around the mountains of the Himalayas through some of the craziest road works I’ve ever seen in my life and now she’s performed absolutely fantastic on the tarmac. This bike really is starting to grow on me.
Day 16, with Chennai in the rear view mirror I’m moving right out along the coast-line now. The names of the towns and cities are whizzing past me. Puducherry sounds great and then names of other places I just can’t pronounce, but I’m feeling confident as that third corner is getting closer every minute. I’m really beginning to enjoy this …. yes of course the traffic is crazy, it’s dog eat dog on these roads but seriously, if we had a population in Australia similar to this place, I dread to think what our situation would be like. I curse them as lunatics but with a population of 1.3 billion, they manage the chaos quite well really. They’re making progress, just like me. Third corner, here I come!
August 19, as I make my way down through Tamil Nadu along the coast-line I actually started to feel homesick. This red terrain was very similar to some of the Australian Bush – dry, red sandy scrub.
August 20, the third corner – Kanyakumari. Wow, this place is bathed in beautiful sunshine and so picturesque. I wish I could stop but I’ve got to push on.
Sadly, I’ve been advised that the weather is extremely bad just a short way up the road. When I say bad, it’s natural disaster bad. The Kerala region is experiencing the worst floods in a century.
It truly is tragic. I’ve been complaining about riding in these conditions but there are people, just a short way up the coast fighting for their lives as a result of these monsoons.. Over 1 million people have been evacuated so far. They estimate at least 350 people dead.
My feelings of elation after reaching the third corner are squashed by such tragic news. These poor people, it’s overwhelming and so far removed from the reality of life in Australia that unless I’d been here I would never truly be able to comprehend such devastation from mother nature.
There was me, thinking I had problems with a little bit of damp and some crazy drivers. We don’t know how good we’ve got it.
I had intended to hug the coastline all the way up the West coast of India, but not wishing to be that muppet tourist we’ve all heard stories of and how they ignore such serious warnings, I decided to take heed of the advice and steer inland to run parallel with the Kerala coast, until it’s safe to head back out onto the coast roads.
Head down, bum up, it’s time to brace myself for some further weather beatings.
Narayan Sarovar, I’m on my way!
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