9.32am on 25th August ….I made it to the 4th corner – Narayan Sarovar.
As i stood there on that windswept desolate road it struck me, this was it, I had travelled to the 4 corners of India.
In fact since leaving Manali at 6am on 5th August, I had done it in 20 days 3hrs & 32mins.
But of course my challenge was to replicate the magnificent journey undertaken by Chiranthana in 2016; which was to circumnavigate India & its 4 corners whilst riding completely solo & unsupported, travelling along India’s coastline & returning to the original starting point to make a complete loop.
On that basis, all that remained for me to do now, was to finish the final leg of the challenge & return to Chandigarh.
My heart sank a little when it dawned on me that another 2 days of hard riding lay ahead of me, 1554kms & approximately 27hours of riding to go. I told myself to stop being a pussy, it was time to get back on the bike & get it done.
One last look at the handful of dusty old tired buildings and the 2 old men that had been sat motionless watching me from the moment I arrived in Narayan Sarovar.
Well, I attempted to get going but 3 times I turned the key and she refused to start. After my momentary heart flutter, I suddenly realised what an idiot I was, I had left the bike in gear with the stand down!
Flicking up the stand, I turned the key again and accelerated away in a cloud of dust, with the two motionless old men being the last thing I saw of that 4th corner.
3km, down the road I came to what looked like a very serious road block. Heavily armed police/military hailed me to a halt. Lifting my visor I greeted them with my best smile and a very English – “Good morning, how can I help?”
Thankfully they relaxed and explained in pretty good English that it is just a standard check due to the close proximity of Pakistan. 2 mins later I was on my way again.
After travelling another 10km and just getting settled into the ride I came across a 2nd military check point and this was a totally different experience to the first.
The first officer to approach me didn’t speak a word of English and I couldn’t understand a word he was saying. My best smile didn’t work, nor the greeting. He called his senior officer over, who turned out to be an obnoxious little shit.
He spoke very good English and told me to switch off the engine and get off the bike. Initially, I returned his hostility with a smart arse reply – “change your attitude corporal”.
What followed then was a series of questions and inspections of the vehicle papers, my luggage and the bike. The whole thing was being recorded on a mobile device and was getting out of hand.
That was it, I knew I needed to regain control of the situation.
I calmly picked up my helmet and switched on the Go pro Wi-Fi. As soon as the blue light started flashing he became aggressive and asked what I was doing.
I calmly replied – “I am recording everything, so that when I complain to your Captain, he can see how you treat retired British Military Personnel and tourists”.
Ha, that kicked him in the whatsits. A few minutes later, a very embarrassed corporal was glad to see me leave. Not as glad as I was!
That little episode cost me 45 minutes of valuable time and in my hurry to make up for that lost time I took a wrong turn, which promptly cost me another 20 minutes. What’s that saying….more haste?
Next came the rain and boy did it rain. I was finding it difficult to make any progress today and by nightfall I had only managed 664kms. Tired, wet and hungry, I had to stop.
I fell asleep knowing I still had another 900kms to go and was facing the prospect of yet another night on the road if tomorrow was to be anything like today.
I woke around 2 am feeling angry with myself and very determined to reach Chandigarh today.
I decided I was going to give this my best shot and by 3am I was back on the road. Tucked in behind a coach and praying I would miss any stray cattle or monster pot holes. For 3 long dark hours it was very tense, but at least it wasn’t raining. I was feeling grateful that I’d insisted on having the LED spotlights fitted.
As dawn arrived I started to relax and felt a little happier with myself, knowing that I’d clocked nearly 200kms.
I recall riding through the Abu Pass and noticing the fantastic scenery, but I just couldn’t allow myself to be distracted, I was a man on a mission. Today was all about the miles, I didn’t even indulge myself with my usual morning cup of chai. It was just stop, refuel and go. I wanted to get this finished TODAY.
At one of the many roadside villages I had to stop and get the bike chain adjusted and within seconds a small crowd had surrounded me with the usual questions, “where you come from?”, ‘where you go to?”.
Whilst I told my story the mechanic was quickly fixing the chain and a cup of chai was produced from nowhere. It was like a pit stop, within a couple of minutes the bike was ready and the chai was all gone. I offered to pay but the mechanic refused, not even 50 Rupees ($1)! With a huge smile and a hand shake he wished me a safe journey – some people are truly incredible.
Feeling revitalised after my cup of chai, Indianna and I – (yes she’s earnt herself that name after this crusade), finally start to see the miles clocking up.
Jaipur, a place I so want to visit, came and went. Then, as I passed Sonipat, there it was, the sign I so desperately needed to see `Chandigarh 200kms’ – YES, I was going to make it TODAY!
The sense of joy and motivation that sign inspired within me was intense.
The next 4 hours became a blur to me really, until suddenly I saw what felt like heaven – a sign for Hill View Farm – the FINISH line for this mammoth journey.
It was surreal, I had done it, I really have done it – I’ve ridden the complete circumference of India, stopping at all 4 corners in 23 days and 12 hours exactly.
With a moment of sadness, that was quickly replaced by relief, I switched off the engine for the last time on what was a truly epic challenge.
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.
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